Turbo Hybrid for WAG: gain 15 to 20 hp thanks to the MFS wheel

The turbine or wheel MFS as its name suggests (Machined From Solid – machined from a – block – solid) is from a complete machining of an aluminum block.

Thanks to this technology, the turbine and the propellers share the same material structure and therefore do not suffer from any fragility contrary to welded elements. To further improve the performance of this MFS turbo hybrid wheel, manufacturers use a high quality aluminum block used in the design of competition engines.

The balancing of this MFS wheel increases the performance of the turbo model by 10 to 15%.

The video below shows how this type of MFS wheel is machined using a so-called « 5-axis » machining system.

At the request of our customers, we are starting to market this type of turbo enhanced like the turbo Audi Volkswagen Seat Sko 2.0 Tdi 140 hp . With the replacement of the Garrett 724930 turbo impeller wheel with an MFS wheel, the power of your engine can be significantly increased.

The manufacturer evokes a power gain of approx. 15 to 20 horses thanks to this boosted turbo. Thus, the engine 2.0 Tdi 140 hp VAG will be able to display performances beyond 160hp

The implementation of this reform had been delayed due in particular to the social movements related to the yellow vests, but from then on, the diesel powered vehicles will be strongly impacted.

The time allowed also allowed the control centers to be trained on the new standards and procedures that will imply this new version of the control .

The technical inspection in July 2019 will focus on the measurement of opacity gas exhaust that reveals the particular content of fine particles of smoke produced by the engine (turbo) diesel.

Until then, the technical control was carried out in rather indulgent conditions for the engine – at low engine speed, cold engine among others – but everyone knows that it is very often at high speed that one sees s’ to escape engines the thick fumes that new standards want to hunt down and eradicate.

Control will now be in conditions close to those of « normal » use in « real life ».

As such, the measuring equipment used during the technical inspections will be replaced by new equipment that will provide the controller with instructions to push the engine tested to its limits . These devices are intended to prevent truncated or fraudulent results intended to hide engine defects and unfairly validate the technical control.

Paradoxically, the most recent engine models – Euro 5 and Euro 6 – will also undergo the most severe tightening of controls. But, even if older engines will benefit from some « indulgence », motorists who own this type of vehicle – especially diesel – are strongly encouraged to have their engines checked upstream, particularly in terms of the turbo’s operating status. , EGR valve , injectors and more generally the injection system. Because it is these organs that are most often responsible for particle emission.

But above all, for those who have in the past chosen to remove their particulate filter (DPF) rather than replace it – especially for cost reasons – know that this new version of technical control will be uncompromising and the vehicles concerned will be systematically sanctioned a counter-visit.

The counter-visit will also concern all the engines presenting alarms on the dashboard and in particular the indicators of motor fault .

CHRA change example for the 1.9 Dci 120 Garrett 708639 turbo – body GT1749V.

This procedure is applicable to:

  • Turbo Mitsubishi Carisma Did 1L9 Dci 115 -120
  • Mitsubishi Space Star Turbo 1L9 Dci 115 -120
  • Turbo Nissan Primera 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Space 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Space 3 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Space 4 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Laguna 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Laguna 2 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Megane 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Megane 2 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Scenic 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Scenic 2 1L9 Dci 120
  • Turbo Volvo S40 1L9
  • Turbo Volvo V40 1L9

Depending on the age of the turbo, the manipulations prescribed below may be more or less difficult to achieve.

Release the control rod from the turbo wastegate (actuator) by removing the circlip which holds it on the variable geometry. In order to facilitate the task, remove the intake side 8 screw which prevents the rod from coming out of its housing.

Especially with regard to the unscrewing of the turbocharger intake side fixing screws (8 mm diameter) as well as for the screws on the exhaust side of the turbo (10 mm diameter). It will therefore be necessary to heat them (using a torch for example) or use penetrating products.

Before you start dismantling, it is essential to draw 2 marks (1 on the aluminum housing on the intake side and another on the exhaust side on the cast iron housing). These 2 marks should coincide with the center of the oil outlet. It will allow during the reassembly of the turbo to correctly reposition the 2 casings.

Unscrew the 3 screws (8) that hold the wastegate on the intake housing.

Unscrew the 4 screws (dia 8) from the intake housing of the turbo and remove it. The turbo turbine is now visible. Above all, do not unscrew the nut that holds it to the axis of the CHRA otherwise you expose yourself to an imbalance of your CHRA.

Unscrew the 5 screws (dia. 10) from the turbo exhaust casing and gently pull out the CHRA. Carry out a thorough cleaning of the variable geometry as well as aluminum and cast iron housings . Proceed to blow the assembly in order to remove any residue of impurities and foreign bodies.

  1. Insert the new turbo cartridge taking care to align the pin of the CHRA with the hole intended to accommodate it on the turbo. Ditto for the notch on the variable geometry that will receive the link of the CHRA.
  2. Before replacing the screws, make sure manually that the lever of the variable geometry is functional and correctly actuates the bearings of the turbo.
  3. Proceed to wind the shell inlet side having previously replaced the old O-ring with a new one. Do not block the screws.
  4. Replace without tightening the turbo housing screws on the exhaust side.
  5. Align the marks that were made before starting the intake side and exhaust side disassembly with the middle of the oil outlet.

10. Final locking of the 9 screws.

11. Reattach the wastegate with its 3 screws and replace the circlip which holds the rod to the turbo ball.

12. In order to ensure a perfect repair, we invite you to read and apply the complete turbo replacement protocol described on this page .

13. Start the turbo with an oil syringe (5W40 or 5W30 for example). Manually actuate the CHRA propeller by hand over a few turns to penetrate the oil and ensure that the CHRA rotates properly.

14. When starting your vehicle, turn off the solenoid valve on the diesel pump and then operate the starter 4-6 times for about 10 seconds to allow the final turbo ignition.


Even if replacing the CHRA with a Laguna 2 turbo, Megane 2 turbo or Scenic 2 turbo seems easy, it should be kept in mind that the operation must be carried out with care and precision .

It is also necessary to establish a preliminary diagnosis and verify that the original malfunction of the turbo comes from a failure of the CHRA. In any case, the causes that caused this malfunction must be removed before changing your CHRA turbo.

Otherwise, there is a risk that the new CHRA will deteriorate rapidly – especially the destruction of the fins – and the taking of your CHRA as collateral could possibly be called into question.

In order to maximize the chances of replacing your clutch, we advise you to observe the following tips:

Dismantling a clutch

  • Always locate the direction of orientation of the disc when removing the mechanism.
  • Check:
    • the surface condition of the friction surface of the flywheel ( absence of shocks and scratches, deep ). Correct if necessary without forgetting to correct also the bolting support surfaces.
    • the condition of the clutch fork.
    • sealing of the oil seals (motor side and gearbox side). In case of non-compliance, change the damaged part (s).
  • Degrease the friction surfaces of the flywheel and mechanism before reassembly

Reassembling your clutch

  • If the assembly includes a pilot bearing (flywheel side), make sure it is free to rotate (if necessary, replace it) and lightly grease its bore.
  • Check the axial camming of the clutch disk (maximum 0.5 mm on the friction surface).
  • Check that the clutch disc slides freely in the splines of the gearbox shaft and grease lightly.
  • Reassemble the clutch disk and mechanism, making sure that the clutch plate is in the correct orientation  .
  • Although reposition the centering pins of the flywheel in the mechanism cover.
  • Tighten the screws gradually diagonally and in successive passes to the recommended tightening torque, ensuring that the mechanism and the clutch disk remain centered (the manufacturer recommends the use of a centering mandrel).
  • Clean and lightly grease the guide tube of the clutch stop (change it if necessary).
  • Re-couple the engine and gearbox taking care not to damage the clutch disc and the splines .
  • In case of hydraulic control, make sure that the transmitter, receiver and circuit are properly sealed .
  • Check and adjust the clearance 2 to 3 mm from the clutch stop, or 80 to 100 N for a constant pressure stop.
  • Make sure that the automatic pedal adjustment is in the home position.

All manufacturers of turbo-diesel engines have chosen, depending on the technology used in the design of their engines, various abbreviations or acronyms that allow them to distinguish their vehicles on the market. These acronyms play a marketing role because most of the time, the « turbo diesel » technologies used by each other have many points in common.

We often use these abbreviations without really knowing what they mean. Here are their definitions for most of the automakers that use turbo technology coupled with a diesel power supply.I-DTEC stands for Smart Diesel Technology Electronic Control

SigleDefinitionBuilding &
CDICommon rail Direct InjectionMercedes-Benz
ITDCCommon Rail Diesel Turbo InjectionOpel
CRDCommon Rail DieselChrysler – Jeep
IDRCCommon Rail Diesel injectionHyundai – Kia
CTDICommon rail Turbo Diesel injectionHonda
DDieselUsed by many manufacturers
D-4DDirect 4-valve diesel injectionToyota
D5Diesel 5 cylinderVolvo
DCIDirect Common Rail Turbo InjectionRenault – Nissan
DIDirect InjectionNissan – Opel
DI-DDirect Diesel InjectionMitsubishi
DITDDirect Injection Turbo DieselMazda
DTIDiesel Turbo InjectionIsuzu
DTIDirect Turbo injectionRenault – Nissan
HDIHigh pressure Direct InjectionPSA Group: Citroen – Peugeot – DS
I-DTECIntelligent Diesel Technology Electronic ControlHonda
i-CDTIIntelligent Common Rail Turbo Diesel InjectionHonda
JTDJet Turbo DieselFiat – Lancia – Alfa Romeo
SDISuction Diesel InjectionSeat – Skoda
TDTurbo DieselUsed by many manufacturers
TD44-cylinder Turbo DieselLand Rover
TD5Turbo Diesel 5 cylindersLand Rover
TD6Turbo Diesel 6 cylindersLand Rover
TDCITurbo Diesel Common Rail InjectionFord
TDITurbocharged Direct InjectionVAG Group: Volkswagen – Audi – Seat – Skoda
TDITurbo Diesel InjectionVAG Group: Volkswagen – Audi – Seat – Skoda
TIDTurbo diesel injectionSaab

Scrap or aluminum dust in injectors and HP pump

It is common to note the presence of aluminum filings in the HP pump and in the injection circuit , especially on vehicles having reached a certain age or having traveled many kilometers.

The fuel filter no longer plays its role when the filings are too much.

The presence of this aluminum powder is mainly due to the wear of the axis . The latter driving the pulley of the high-pressure pump can be brought to play and wear over time.

This results in the production of a metal dust or filings that will gradually walk in the injection circuit and quickly generate malfunction of the diesel injectors and the entire diesel injection circuit.

The breakdown on the vehicle is then characterized as follows:

  • A warning light comes on first on the dashboard indicating a diesel injection anomaly
  • A click is then heard at the injectors
  • The diesel engine is increasingly difficult to start and in the short term, it does not start at all.

The filings are a real scourge for your diesel engine because it spreads throughout the fuel system. This dust will notably move to the injectors that it will quickly damage. Indeed, the orifices and mechanisms of the diesel injectors are very fine and a few milligrams of this filings are then enough to obstruct these passages. The injectors can no longer assume their role, become blocked and become irreversibly damaged.

there is on the high-pressure pump a return mechanism that allows the uneaten diesel to return to the tank. Unfortunately, the diesel comes back to its origin loaded with these metal particles and will return to fuel the engine again being polluted and the vicious circle continues and worsens over time.

The only solution is to proceed with a methodical and meticulous cleaning of the entire fuel / injection circuit in order to totally eliminate the aluminum filings. Without this, the slightest residue of filings will quickly generate a new failure.

The repair protocol to get rid of this metal filings permanently and the inconveniences that go together will have to proceed as follows:

  • Removal, emptying and compulsory flushing of the fuel tank.
  • Cleaning the diesel circuit (hoses, tubes and ports)
  • Changing the diesel filter
  • Replacing the HP pump
  • Change of 4 injectors
  • Replacing the timing belt

We offer COMPLETE PACKS to permanently eradicate this problem of metal filings on this page.

Engine break-in: watch for slow motion!

Following the rectification or renovation of an engine, many users perform a form of engine running completely useless and particularly detrimental to the integrity of the reconditioned engine by leaving the engine idling for hours or even days.

By doing so, one might think that after the change of engine, it will be preserved too large loads and thus reduce any damage it may suffer but it is actually the opposite occurs.

The flapper does not fulfill its role because of the under-regime. The oil is not injected into the piston and therefore does not benefit the lubrication of other components

In fact, an engine break-in must in no way be carried out in this way because this type of practice may cause wear and early deterioration of the newly installed engine, in particular for the following reasons:

  • at low speed, the oil pump does not generate enough pressure and the oil supply to the engine is greatly reduced; The engine is not lubricated enough.
  • the bearings are not sufficiently lubricated and cooled and the impurities and the resulting abrasion filings are no longer removed due to insufficient rinsing of the pads.
  • The volume of oil leaving the bushings is not enough as the oil flow projected on the wall of the cylinder. The foreign bodies mentioned above are not evacuated , will cause premature wear and irreversible damage to the new engine.
  • The piston cooling valve remains inactive and therefore closed when the engine is idling. The piston is no longer cooled. As the oil flow is low, the lubrication at the piston pin and the small end bushing will also be insufficient .
  • The lubrication and cooling of the turbo are also not sufficient when operating at low speed. Keep in mind that from the first quarter of an hour at low revs, damage can already occur on the turbo, whether it is a normal operation or a running-in situation.

When operating at « normal » speed, the oil sent by the nozzle drops in drops after cooling the pistons and will also cool the piston pins.
The lubrication of the cylinders is ensured by a regular spraying of the oil coming out of the crankshaft bearings.

  • Some internal or peripheral engine components that also require proper and regular lubrication will also suffer damage due to too low engine speed. This is particularly the case for valves, camshaft and rockers . The low speed of the engine can totally deprive them of lubrication during the whole life of idling.
  • When the engine is idling, the piston rings are no longer able to provide a complete seal. During their transit, the very high temperature combustion gases heat the cylinder wall and damage the film of oil. In the worst case, it may happen that oil even reaches into the combustion chamber. This will result in the emanation of blue smoke and an
  • escape of oil from the exhaust.

If you do not have a test stand to apply a defined break-in program to your new engine, we advise you to break-in your new engine using your vehicle under normal conditions for a distance of approximately 5000 km. You will need to avoid charging your vehicle too much, excess rpm – never beyond two-thirds of the maximum rpm . It is also advisable to constantly vary your engine speed by shifting quickly and avoiding the maximum to find you under-rev. You will also need to avoid long climbssuch as crossing passes, especially when the vehicle is loaded. During descents, on the other hand, you will have to avoid as much as possible the engine brake.

If you must take the highway, be sure to keep a moderate pace, especially avoid pushing your reports or climb too high in your engine speeds. It is also advisable to avoid as much traffic jams as possible , the stops inherent to city traffic. The important temperatures of the summer are also to be avoided because they can cause a significant heating of your engine.

During your engine running, it will be necessary to regularly check (every 100 km in the early stages) your oil level in order to detect a possible overconsumption while keeping in mind that break-in can still cause a slight increase of oil consumption. Be sure to replenish when necessary especially without exceeding the maximum level allowed by your gauge.

Finally, during the break-in period of your engine, it is imperative to perform a drain every 1000km with an oil filter replacement to fully purge your engine of dirt and grit from engine break-in.

Good road and long life to your new engine!

We remind you that for engines in standard exchange, the return of the old engine is offered . Enjoy!

Turbo cheap … but at what price?

The repackaging of a turbo uses industrial processes requiring specific tools and heavy precision.

The renovation of a turbo in standard exchange must be done in the rules of the art and one can not venture to recondition a turbo without having the skills and knowledge in precision industrial machining.

Following its renovation, the turbo must pass on a specific machine responsible for balancing to calibrate the refurbished turbo and many compliance tests must be made to ensure that the quality of the product is consistent with the manufacturer’s standards.

This is why, from the beginning of its activity in the 90s, has decided to entrust the reconditioning of turbos in standard exchange to specialized industry which is the business.

By making this choice, we are now able to provide our customers with a quality turbo that meets the standards of the original manufacturer and that guarantees the highest quality and reliability .

Thanks to this quality, we can today guarantee you our turbos in standard exchange 2 years.

Over time, the quality of our standard exchange turbos has become our hallmark. We are proud of this choice because our professional customers, thanks to this quality of product, recognize us as a trusted partner.

However, we wish to inform you that a large number of turbo players on the Net have not made the choice as « all industrial » and can present on their website turbos a priori identical to ours to sometimes very competitive prices.

But beware of the policy of « NOT EXPENSIVE » or « ALWAYS CHEAPER » …

… which may seem tempting at first glance! Because often, to reduce the selling price of a turbo, some colleagues repackage the turbos themselves in their workshop or garage without having adequate equipment to obtain optimal turbo quality. It is also possible that the spare parts they use to renovate their turbos do not have the guarantees and quality sufficient to obtain a turbo capable of lasting in time. Some doubts can also be expressed as to the origin of the said spare parts.

We also recommend caution on the choice of buying a CHRA (or cartridge) turbo if you are planning to renovate your turbo yourself. Professionals who market this type of product will not be able to offer you a guarantee on this type of sale because by opting for the CHRA replacement solution, you become responsible for the successful completion of your repair . And it will be easy for a CHRA turbo seller to discharge any liability if your repair fails. It will indeed be difficult to prove that this failure is attributable to the quality of the CHRA turbo that you have bought.

Know finally that during the exchange of the cartridge of your turbo by your own means, it must imperatively pass on a ban balancing and calibration otherwise your repair will be likely to be dedicated to failure.

Encoding of your injectors: procedure.

Instructions to follow when replacing your injectors.

Each injector is accompanied by a personal code present on a label positioned on the injector or on a document accompanying the new injector.

Do not use the code of the old injector.

In order to proceed correctly to the change of your injector, you will first of all have to make sure to discard the reasons of the initial failure which led you to the replacement of the injectors. Otherwise the injector replacement will be useless and you will quickly find yourself in the same fault configuration as originally.

<< link >> This article << link >> refers in particular to the problem frequently encountered with the filings present in the injection system and the procedure to be followed to remedy it. We remind our customers that without these precautions taken before the installation of new injectors, a possible warranty of your part could be questioned.

However, if the origins of your injector failure have already been clarified and the factors that led to the malfunction of your old injectors have been ruled out, you can proceed to the installation of your new injectors :

  1. Position the injectors in each cylinder and proceed to the encoding of each unit with the new code accompanying each injector. This procedure must be carried out with a « suitcase » taking care to respect the correspondence between the cylinder number on the engine and the cylinder number to be encoded on the bag. Do not use old injector codes.
  2. Attach the high pressure hoses to the top of the injectors, making sure they are loose . This will allow bleeding – hereinafter – air still present in the injection circuit. The electrical plugs must not be connected.
  3. Operate the starter until the fuel starts to escape from the injector. Then tighten the fuel supply . Operate the starter again until the fuel comes out of the injector return pipe this time.
  4. Plug in the electrical plug of the injector and finally the fuel return pipe of the injector.
  5. Do the same on each of the cylinders

Error when attaching 1.9 Dci 120 hp

An error is often made when replacing the collector gasket of the 1.9 Dci 120 hp turbo

Turbo repair: Bad position of the Laguna Scenic Space 3 and Espace 4 turbo seal

It is imperative to take certain precautions when changing your turbo 1.9 Dci 120 hp especially during reassembly.

The exhaust manifold gasket of this turbocharger has a dual feature:

  • The spaces between the holes of the studs allow a perfect reversibility of the joint.
  • The outer shape of the seal also allows perfect reversibility when mounting on the collector part of the turbo.
Turbo repair: Bad position of the Laguna Scenic Space 3 and Espace 4 turbo seal

In fact, if we do not take enough care – for example, if the change of turbo occurs in a poorly lit environment – it is easy to commit a clumsiness and perform the installation of the joint in the wrong direction . This can also happen if you put your seal « blind » without having a direct view of the turbo port exhaust side.

If this error is made, the seal thus placed will obstruct a large part of the exhaust outlet and cause short-term significant deterioration of your 1.9 Dci 120 hp turbo.

wrong positioning of the Megane Scenic Laguna 1.9 Dci 120 hp turbo

The exhaust path will be greatly reduced at the intake nozzle and will prevent the normal operation of your turbocharger.

The consequences will be:

  • Whistling turbo
  • Major lack of power
  • Imbalance of your turbo
  • … and eventually, break your turbo

So be sure to properly position the seals when changing your turbo . You under will avoid repair and unnecessary expenses because in this case, with a mounting error characterized, iTurbo will be unable to apply the warranty on your turbocharger.

Correct position of the turbo 1.9 – 120 hp metal gasket reference 708639

Replacement injectors: precautions to observe during your repair

Changing the injector (s) or HP pump systematically involves taking precautions , especially for high-pressure pumps and Delphi injectors.

Injectors from the Delphi manufacturer with the references 28232242, 28232248 and 28232251 are particularly concerned by this protocol.

In the case of a change of injector or a high-pressure pump, a RIGOROUS cleaning must be carried out :

  • the tank fuel
  • of ALL fuel hoses
  • of the injection ramp

At the same time, you will need to replace :

  • the diesel filter
  • the timing belt : it is necessary to remove the belt when changing your HP pump and it is strongly recommended not to raise the same.

Finally, check the condition of your HP pump and check for iron chips and other aluminum dust. Because if your injection system remains polluted after changing your injectors, your new injectors will be damaged and your repair has been in vain. If the condition of your high pressure pump is not satisfactory, consider replacing it.

Technical Notice – Turbo Mounting Tips

echnical manual for replacing / changing a turbocharger.

Any turbo replacement requires special care. Any negligence can aggravate the situation and lead to the destruction of the new turbo. As the reasons for the breakage of the previous turbo have not been solved, it is useless to replace your turbo because a new failure will occur inevitably following your repair.

The Garrett and Mitsubishi 1.6 L and 2.2 L Hdi turbos require even more precautions and require the replacement of peripheral turbo parts such as the strainer, oil inlet pipe, sieve screw, turbo seals and injectors …

To help you in your repair, iTurbo offers this explanatory note.

It is necessary to respect scrupulously all the stages of the replacement of the turbo to know:

For the air intake:

  • Change the air filter with a new filter.
  • Check all the turbo air intake area and the breather and get rid of any foreign matter: dust, scale, debris …
  • Check the air circuits by checking that they are not crushed or blocked. If necessary, replace damaged hoses or hoses.
  • Remove any oil residue in the air intake system by cleaning the entire system.

IMPORTANT  : If you notice that the compressor wheel mounting nut is missing when removing the turbo, special care must be taken to find the part before reassembly of the air circuits.

Regarding the emptying of the oil:

  • The oil should be at room temperature.
  • The vehicle must not be inclined either in length or width.
  • Loosen the oil filter to allow the oil to drain completely.
  • Remove the filler cap and dipstick.
  • Remove the drain plug.
  • Let the oil flow through the sump. Be careful not to proceed by aspiration.

Primordial: If the tip of your dipstick is yellow (synthetic material), please replace it with a new orange composite gauge.

Concerning the cleaning:

  • Clean the engine using a suitable rinsing agent such as Würth’s (0893558) or MotorFlush or Xenum, which scrupulously complies with the manufacturer’s instructions for use.
  • Thoroughly clean the oil cooler and engine-side filter with brake cleaner. Then proceed to complete drying of the parts with a compressor.
  • The sieve of the vacuum pump must then be completely cleaned, always with brake cleaner. Then dry with compressed air. If, despite everything, you are unable to clean the vacuum pump, it must be replaced by a new pump.

Primordial: If the oil seems unsuitable, it is necessary to rinse the system again before continuing the procedure.

For turbos whose vehicles are equipped with an oil strainer, the oil strainer MUST IN ALL CASES be replaced by a new strainer .

Check and as needed:

  • Change the turbo oil supply hose with a new hose.
  • Replace the hollow screw for the oil supply with a new screw. Also proceed with the replacement of its joints.
  • Replace the turbo oil return pipe with new pipe and fitting and all seals.

IMPORTANT:   For 1.6 Hdi turbos or other turbos equipped with this device, check that the pre-run screen of the old hollow screw has been removed and does not remain in the block.

Take care when tightening the hollow screw that the hose does not turn. This can be avoided by using a suitable tool. On the motor side you need a ‘B’ diameter tool of 7.5mm and the turbo side with an ‘A’ diameter of 8.5mm.

Fill the oil and carry out the tests:

  • Change the oil filter with a new filter.
  • Close the drain plug by replacing the gasket with a new one.
  • Fill the oil of your motor respecting the levels.
  • Place the oil return pipe in a bin to collect it.
  • Start your engine and let it run for about 1 minute at idle. During this period, you will need to recover in the tank a quantity greater than 1/2 liter. Repeat the test at least 2 to 3 times to be certain that the oil flow is sufficient.

IMPORTANT: Do not start your engine if the oil level is below the minimum.

  • Carefully connect the new oil return hose to the new turbo.
  • Reassemble the oil level of your engine with a sufficient amount.
  • Let your engine idle as long as the oil pressure light does not go out. This should take a maximum of 60 seconds.
  • Stop your engine and give it 5 min. at the complete stop.
  • Check your oil level with the gauge as you get closer to the maximum, without going beyond.

IMPORTANT: Then travel 30 to 40 kilometers with your car and then change the oil of your engine and your oil filter again.

Perform some additional checks for the turbo devices:

  • When visually inspecting your injectors, if you notice sooty traces it may show that one of your injectors has a leak.
  • You will have to solve the problem before going further.
  • Even if you do not notice the presence of soot, you must check the tightening torque (0.4daNm + 75 °)
  • Check your EGR valve. If you notice pollution, you will have to clean it or change it.
  • Check your particulate filter and change it if necessary.
  • Check your exhaust pipe of the turbo and in case of wear, you will have to change it.

Illustration of the consequences of insufficient lubrication of the turbo:

Example of impact on the wings of a turbo

This nut plays the role of « snitch » attesting to an insufficient oil arrival systematically causing irreversible damage to the turbocharger.

Trouble on a fresh new turbo mounted during the first engine start. The mechanic performed a motionless car acceleration to trigger the action of the turbo and due to a marked lack of lubrication, a particular force was exerted on the axis of the turbine causing the unscrewing of the safety nut. This caused irreversible damage to the fins.

In conclusion :

We invite customers and mechanics to keep in mind that the turbo is a sensitive and fragile organ. The failure of a turbo never intervenes without reason : a peripheral member or an unhealthy environment is ALWAYS responsible for its deterioration: fault of the valve egr  of the injectors , intake circuit fouled in particular because of porosity or deterioration of the oil filter , insufficient or no oil supply, poor quality of the oil especially due to a drain cycle too long …

For older turbo-diesel vehicles, it is recommended to keep the vehicle idling for about 30 seconds before turning off the ignition as the turbo takes advantage of the same lubrication circuit as the engine. This delay will allow the turbo turbine to stop before engine lubrication stops.

In order to extend the life of your turbo as well as that of your engine, recommends that you  drain every 7,000 and 10,000 km maximum.

Reminder: As long as the reasons for the breakage of the previous turbocharger have not been ruled out, the exchange of the turbo will be useless and will systematically lead to the deterioration of the new turbo. In case of non-compliance with the requirements mentioned in this document, can not be held responsible for damage caused to your new turbo and a possible warranty of your part could be questioned.

Your turbo Standard exchange guaranteed 2 years!

Today, the various players in the turbo market do not all offer the same level of service and quality products.

The strategy of consists since the beginning of its activity to propose the best services and the best products and these are the values ​​which motivate our customers of which you are part.

So much of the quality of the turbos that we market, we decided to carry the warranty of our turbos in standard exchange TWO YEARS. You will not find anywhere a turbo specialist offering such a level of guarantee and we are proud to reserve you this exclusivity.

In addition, is today the only online sales site to offer both:

  • a standard replacement turbo refurbished by specialized manufacturers  who supply you with a new refurbished product in accordance with the manufacturer’s original specifications. Many turbos dealers do their own parts remanufacturing but has always preferred to play the card of reliability and quality relying on specialists whose turbo repackaging is the job and who have ‘an efficient industrial production line. This is the only guarantee for us to meet our quality requirements.
  • telephone reception with competent technicians  who help you and advise you in the choice of your turbo without interruption from 9:30 to 18:30 from Monday to Friday.
  • fast order processing with same day shipping for all purchases before 16h: since you can file a product to your cart that means the turbo or car spare parts are physically present in our stock. You do not have a bad surprise as to the time of reception. Once again, we distinguish ourselves from other actors by allowing you to receive your piece the next day before 13h and you can predict at the time of order to begin your repair the next day.
  • a turbo in standard exchange without deposit or deposit on while ALL our colleagues ask you a deposit between 80 and 150 €. And if for some reason you can not return the old turbo in time (often 15 days) you can mourn your instructions that will remain acquired from the seller. On this point, has chosen to play the card of confidence by not asking for instructions . In exchange for this favor, we ask the customer to play the game and return the old turbo within a reasonable time of about a month. In addition, you will receive at the same time as your turbo a free shipping label (for you 🙂 that will allow you to return the old material once your repair is complete.


The words « turbocharger » and « turbo » evoke in the imagination a surplus of power of the engine, which is released in crunches of the tire and the hissing of a turbine.

But what about in reality? How does a turbocharger work?

Its operation is based on the principle of supercharging, which optimizes the combustion of a fuel, increasing by compression the amount of air admitted into the combustion chamber.

The compression of the air is obtained by the rotation of two propellers located on the same axis, but fulfilling very different functions:

The first propeller is driven by the exhaust gases, which make it spin by allowing it to reach speeds exceeding 200,000 revolutions per minute. The second propeller, which is driven by the first, compresses the air that must be admitted into the combustion chambers.

With such a speed of rotation, the blades of the propellers are subjected to enormous forces that can approach 100 kg, and in such conditions the passage of a foreign body (even small) in the system can have consequences devastating.

The image of the turbocharged car, which unleashes its full power when the turbocharger comes into operation, comes from the fact that the traditional turbos are only operational at a certain engine speed and some time to activate. This was in fact a real problem, and many cars with turbo had the reputation of being « hollow » at low revs. The queen in this area was the Renault 5 Turbo 2, with which it was better to be cautious when cornering during re-acceleration.

Fortunately, this problem has been solved with the introduction of variable geometry turbochargers, which provide sufficient torque at lower speeds. As a result, the abrupt acceleration has disappeared, and manufacturers can now produce small-displacement gasoline or diesel engines that are efficient and respectful of the environment.